This is my seventh winter in Turkey and it is the worst I remember. The old ladies in the village say it is the worst in living memory – and then sneak up on you with a snowball.
When the electric storms aren’t having tantrums over the mountains the torrential rain is sluicing through the streets making surfing down to the tea shop a real possibility and when the rain stops and the skies clear the temperature plummets and the village is glossed with ice and frost for days at a time.
My pool froze, four times. My bougainvillea has expired, my geraniums have blackened and died and when the dog’s water bowl outside froze solid Evil’s got stuck to it – curiosity got the cat a very cold bum. It is, in short, bloody awful and not what we are used to enduring anymore, despite good solid Celtic bone structure and insulating fat deposits we’re really feeling it.
We’re down to one access road into the village; the new road from Yaylakoy has disintegrated under tractor and truck traffic and is mainly deep furrows carved into the clay and the gorge road up from Kusadasi is officially closed for widening and improvements and has been shut for a month now. The dolmus traffic is taking long and confused routes through Gokcealan and Cinar and that road is suffering from the increased traffic and the torrential rains.
All the winter jobs are on hold because there just isn’t enough of a window between storms to get them done and the dogs are hogging every heating source possible.I sneakily buggered off to the UK and warmed up nicely in the St David’s Hotel and Spa in Cardiff Bay and so missed ten days of really foul weather but Nick kindly sent me minute by minute whinges about how cold he was. As I watched a blood red sun rise over the Roath Basin and the National Assembly building he sent me pictures of the village streets raging with snowball wars and our usual walks cloaked in white. I was sorry to have missed it but I consoled myself with a massage and an hour in the sauna 🙂
When I landed back at Izmir last Monday night in the middle of an epic thunder storm it took us twice as long to get home as it normally does because the road through Torbali was feet deep in water and the power was out as far as Selcuk.
Talking to our friend Hakan the other day he said this is the wettest and coldest winter he remembers and he has burnt twice as much fuel as usual to keep the house warm. I dread to think what sort of damage some of the summer house owners will be facing when the spring comes and they open up their houses.
But there is hope on the horizon, Ahmet down the tea shop promises summer in a month, and he is probably right, this winter is vicious and feels bad to us but it is nearly done and by the end of February the sun will be shining again. It’s shining today actually, and my washing dried in three hours and the days are noticeably longer and soon the ice and the snow will be a distant memory.
It gives the neighbours something to talk about though, everyone will remember the winter of 2012 when it snowed in Kirazli and the old ladies of the village ganged up against the children and snowballed them into the ground.PS Thanks to Nick for the photos, fortunately I left my camera at home because it’s huge and not easy to haul around and so he managed a few good pictures before the villagers caught up with him and tried to bury him in the snow.
I have noticed the dreadful weather you are suffering in Turkey this year – more than one blogger has mentioned it and some of the havoc it’s wreaking. Still, you are more than able to make the best of it in words! Looking forward to having something you’ve written in my hands. Axxx
Turkey likes to make us all look daft and so it is currently sunny, warm, 20 degrees and I’m painting with all the doors and windows open. It has been a horrible winter though and because I’ve been here so long I notice it more. K xxx
Amazing. I just returned from the States on Thursday and all we heard on the phone with friends and family, via Facebook, on Kusadasi.biz, and in the Turkish news was how incredibly cold and wet it was here. Funny because the weather in the Northeast of the U.S. was record warm and record low precipitation. I have to confess that I think I might have brought our weather there and as a result, their weather here! It has been sunny since Thursday, hasn’t it?? :). And yes, I Thought of the poor summer home owners when I got back to my house – incredibly damp (even the sheets and clothes hanging in the closets were slightly wet) and a mildewed bathroom ceiling. That after only one month away and someone being here an hour or two daily to take care of our cat! Al least we managed to escape the worst of it! x
I dread to think what some will find when they open up their houses the combination of days of freezing temperatures followed by heavy rain is playing hell with a lot of houses. We’ve got signs up all around the village warning that the old stone houses are now unstable because they are just crumbling this winter. The tugla houses down on the coast will really have suffered.
Glad you had a good trip and welcome back, bet kedi missed you!
K xxxx
And I have thought that I am just a spoilt girl who is used to the comfort of central heating and proper isolation back home in Germany. Thank you for sharing your feelings about that winter, it helps me a lot to endure -“hopefully”- the last two weeks.
Me and my cat are waiting for the weather to get better to feel human again after living as a sort of modern gypsies for the last 3-4 months, using layers of socks, jumpers or blankets night and day.
It is unusually awful this winter. Normally we get terrible storms that last a day or so and then it’s back to being fairly warm and very sunny, I’ve never known it like this before. Hopefully the worst is over and we’ll start to warm up soon, today is certainly warm. K xxx
It sounds dreadful, Karen, especially in a country not equipped for this kind of weather. Do thank Nick for the photos – they are lovely. Hope the book is going well. 🙂
That is the main problem, this part of the country just doesn’t know how to handle it, and the work and expense involved in keeping their houses warm is certainly clobbering the villagers.
Book is going well, on last edit, hopefully. Met my agent last week in London, and she is lovely, and so hopefully going to London Book Fair in April with it. Right now I’m painting walls and writing the edits in my head 🙂
K xxx
Do let us know when it’s available – we’ll be queuing up to buy it. 🙂
. . global warming is great – for GDP! Good to have you back and scribbling.
I hope that things become warmer very soon. BTW, I just think the photo’ of the elderly woman throwing snowballs is so amusing.
Loved the photos! Here in Cappadocia we are used to harsh winter conditions and although I’m heartily sick of winter now and looking forward to it all being over in a couple of weeks, I can imagine that it must be very hard in regions where it is not a normal occurence. Particularly when heating costs of any form are so high.
Here in Datca it’s not been so bad, down to 2C at night but no ice or snow; lots of torrential rain and thunder storms though. However it’s the coldest winter for 33 years and friends tell me that they’re running out of wood for the soba already. We’ve had Lodos ( southerly winds) for the last 3 days, so it’s much warmer than it was, but with more rain! My balcony plants are convinced it’s Spring – I certainly hope so!!!!
With you all the way there – it’s been a horror this winter. We’re further south than you so haven’t seen any snow but we have reached freezing point a couple of times – unheard of in Fethiye – and the mountains just look amazing. The high point is, those kids and grannies got to play in the snow! 🙂
Julia
Rumour has it we have more snow forecast for Thursday – and I was going to go to Pammukale and photograph the travertines. Roll on spring, very bored of rain and cold now. K xxx
hello there, great blog site, and a decent understand! just one for my book marks.